Sri Lanka by car: circumventing Ceylon

Driving through think jungle, narrow mountain roads and back in time to ancient ruins
Wednesday, September 6, 2017 to Friday, September 15, 2017

What is a good place to get an Indian Visa?

Exploring Sri Lankainfo-icon by car was not on my bucket list. But because of my scheduled trip to Indiainfo-icon, I urgently needed a Visa! For most visitors, a simple online eVisa is enough to visit India. Not for me! I already promised to stay half a year in New Delhi to support the social enterprise Dharma Life. Because I want to see my family every once in a while, I also planned a one-month break over Christmas. While the American ESTA Visa and many other Visas have a validity of three months, the Indian eVisa only allows you to stay for two months. Due to my predefined schedule of two times three months, I found myself in a dilemma. The Indian eVisa was too short, so I needed another solution.

While hiking the Himalayan Mountains in Nepal, I was contemplating about all this. Only after looking into several options and finding a nearby Indian Embassy or Consulate, I discovered the Island of Sri Lanka. The Indian Consulate in Colombo promised the possibility of a full year Visa. “That’s perfect”, I thought to myself. That’s when my travel plan took shape: flying to Sri Lanka, renting a vehicle and discovering Sri Lanka by car while my Visa application is being processed. And I barely had two weeks before I was expected in India. How exciting!

Renting a car and CouchSurfing in Colombo

My trip to Sri Lanka was not as smooth as expected. When changing the flight in Singaporeinfo-icon’s Changi Airport, I missed the connecting flight – for the very first time in my life! This is especially surprising if you know how many connecting flights I have already successfully embarked alone this year. This rather annoying story, however, has to be told another day. In the end, I reached Colombo two days later on another flight. At the airport, it took me a while to pick up my rental car.

Renting a car in Sri Lanka is not as simple as in other countries. International car rental companies are not operating in Sri Lanka and you need to convert your international driving license into a Sri Lankan driving license. In the internet, I found a local company taking care of this and meeting me at the airport. By the time, I found the guy at the airport and completed all the formalities, the sun already disappeared behind the horizon and I drove off into the dark. On the road to the city, I met up with a travel friend from the Philippinesinfo-icon and our local CouchSurfing host. This night, we stayed at a fabulous host with his family. We shared the upper level of his home with a lovely couple from – wait for it – Singapore!

Reaching the southernmost point of Ceylon

The next day, I filed my Indian Visa application. What I expected to be a quick thing, turned out to be a time-consuming procedure. For some reason, my pre-filled and printed forms were not accepted by the visa center and they sent me to an agency next door. There, I queued to have a local guy filling out the same forms again – against a small fee of course. Back in the Indian Visa Center (IVS Global), I queued again to have a guy checking my documents. Only to line up one more time to officially hand in my application. When they finally released me, noon has already passed and I was exhausted. Now the fun part could start!

One street-chai (tea) later, my friend and me were on the road to explore Sri Lanka. With the rented car, we followed the coastline counter-clockwise down to the South. The drop-shaped island is not very large and later in the afternoon, we already reached the southernmost tip, a white lighthouse near Matara. Climbing the building was not possible, instead we chatted with a group of teenage boys on their first independent trip. After a short break, we continued our ride. Way after sunset, we reached a guesthouse near the famous Yala National Park. Allegedly, this is the best place to spot tigers!

Tasting Ceylon Tea in the clouds of Ella Rock

Yala National Park was closed and we did not spot any tigers. Instead, we passed by many elephants in the adjacent Lulugamvehera National Park, as well as on the public road! Slightly disappointment, we continued our overland journey towards the heart of Sri Lanka. Ella Rock, the one place everybody recommended us, is a mountain peak on 1,000 meters. We started at sea level and drove well-paved, yet narrow and windy roads up the hills into the mountains. The path to Ella, the touristy town below the peak, is passing by many waterfalls - a welcome refreshment for travellers and locals alike.

Approaching the township, we saw more and more tea plantations. Only there I realised that Ceylon was the former name for Sri Lanka and this was the main place to grow and harvest the world-famous Ceylon Tea! Of course, now I wanted to know more and visit a Ceylon Tea plantation. With the Newburgh Green Tea Factory, we found the ideal plantation to explore tea farming and production. First, we wandered through a field of dark green tea bushes and helped the farmers sorting their todays harvest. Then, we got a private tour around the factory and tasted green tea of different qualities.

But this was only our first highlight. Hiking up the scenic path to Ella Rock was even more fun. Shortly after leaving our little guest house, we met a group of young adults. These cool boys and girls came from Colombo, studied abroad and now hiked up Ella Rock – like us. They had a boom-box and listened to the latest international hits. The following ascent through the thick forest was more fun than expected, as we were singing and dancing up the rocks. By the time our international group reached the top, it was wrapped in thick clouds. A final dance on the misty peak concluded our excursion.

Ancient Kingdoms of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa

Sri Lanka has a long history of kingdoms and intrigue. After Ella, I dropped my travel companion at the airport and went on a journey back in time. The northern part of Sri Lanka is packed with UNESCO protected ruins and other remains of its long history, a true marvel for all hobby archaeologists and culture adventurers. The country’s older dynasty was housed in Anuradhapura and Mihintale. Among those ruins are also the island’s oldest and most sacred Buddhist places. In two exhaustive days, I explored a dozen different ruins, temples and stupas. It’s hard to pick a favourite spot but stumbling through the overgrown Abhayagiriya monastery was certainly a great experience.

A bit further to the South, Sigiriya catches every traveller’s attention. In the middle of nowhere, suddenly a massive rock peeks out of the Sri Lankan jungle. From the distance, it looks like an enormous freight ship in an ocean of trees. When coming closer, the yellow-brown sandstone with ancient ruins on its flat top becomes even more impressive. I reached late in the afternoon and had to hurry up if I wanted to climb the top of the so-called Lion’s Head. From the top, I enjoyed a panoramic view over the surrounding land – and patiently waited for the evening thunderstorm to pass by. I can only guess, how the king was ruling his people from this magical place, many centuries ago. The Lion’s Head ruins at Sigiriya truly deserve to be protected by UNESCO.

The next day, I explored the remains of the Polonnaruwa Kingdom. Sri Lanka’s last monastic dynasty ruled the island from today’s city of Kaduruwela. Like the other two sites, this area is also packed with ancient temples, royal courts, statues and other ruins. I’m sure you can spend many days, stumbling over those crumbling rocks and fading statues. There is so much to discover and learn about this ancient civilization from the first millennia. However, I was pretty exhausted from the last few days, driving all around Sri Lanka by car. Also, I was running out of time, I had to be back in Colombo before the weekend to collect my Visa! So, I quickly emptied a fresh lime juice and set off – to today’s capital of Sri Lanka by car.

Relaxing at the Indian Ocean in Mount Lavinia

Back in Colombo, I was waiting to collect my Indian Visa. Finally, I had some time to lean back, relax and delve into the urban city jungle. Sri Lanka’s capital is not especially inviting for visitors, but it offers a few nice sights. The city centre hosts a green park, two lakes and a series of Buddhist temples. Despite the hot days, I enjoyed walking around and seeking shadow under the trees. I found the city much cleaner and less polluted than everything I’ve seen later in India. Living with limited resources, the Sri Lankans surely are taking better care of their island.

My last two days, I spent in Mount Lavinia, a small suburb in Colombo’s South. Contrary to its name, this is not a mountain, but a village at the beach! A beautiful sandy beach with lovely cafes, by the way. This peaceful seaside was the last thing I’d expect, as it is fully attached to the big city and hidden behind the coastal railway line. From my little guest house, I just had to cross one road and the railway tracks before suddenly standing in a white café facing the blue ocean. What a great spot to have a swim and get some online work done. I wanted to stay longer, but India was calling – literally!

Sri Lanka by car is a hidden gem in the Indian Ocean

Surely, I have heard about Sri Lanka before, but it was never on my bucket list. After travelling around Ceylon for less than two weeks, I am thrilled by its diversity and amazed by its beauty. On this little island, you can find everything from golden beaches, dusty dry plains up to thick green rainforests in the mountains. It has a series of national parks, hosting wild animals that can compete with African safari trips. Its people are openhearted and welcoming to foreigners, speaking English and inviting you to their culture. And not to forget, the island’s history is reaching back about two millennia, with thriving kingdoms, dynasties and intrigues, that can match the Romans, though not in size.

I am very happy to have discovered Sri Lanka. Without the challenge of getting a longer Indian Visa, I’d never had thought about it. Surely, I have not seen everything, but I feel happily satisfied with my short Sri Lankan adventure. Looking back to my time on the small island puts a smile on my face. If I ever have the chance, I will go back and visit my dear new friends. So should you, book a flight and go explore Ceylon.

One last word about my Visa mission: I have only received a six-month visa for India. The Consulate explained to me, that they are only issuing full-year Indian visas for Sri Lankan citizens. Because of that, I was facing a new issue. Half a year later, when my Indian visa will expire, I probably will have to do a visa run. This will give me the opportunity to find and explore another beautiful place in South Asiainfo-icon, I am sure. Nevertheless, I could book a flight from Colombo to New Delhi and go on my long awaited pro bono mission in India. With such an outlook, I’m always okay with leaving a great place.

A great thanks to the amazing CouchSurfing host in Colombo and my dear travelling friend.

My waypoints on this journey

Colombo - enjoying the bustling metropolis while waiting for my India Visa
enjoying the bustling metropolis while waiting for my India Visa
Matara - visiting the southernmost point of Sri Lanka, first stop of my road trip
visiting the southernmost point of Sri Lanka, first stop of my road trip
Parevi Duwa - getting a Buddhist string for protection and good luck
getting a Buddhist string for protection and good luck
Lunugamvehera National Park - alternative to the famous Yala National Park and its leopards
alternative to the famous Yala National Park and its leopards
Newburgh Green Tea Plantation - full tea production from collecting to processing the leaves
full tea production from collecting to processing the leaves
Rawana Falls - great place to enjoy nature on the mountainous path to Ella Rock
great place to enjoy nature on the mountainous path to Ella Rock
Ella Rock - amazing hike through nature with a great view (if not too foggy)
amazing hike through nature with a great view (if not too foggy)
Red Cross Cultural Hall -
traditional dance performance and fire spitting in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Temple of the Tooth - former royal palace and old capital of the Kingdom of Sri Lanka
former royal palace and old capital of the Kingdom of Sri Lanka
St. Anna's Church - passing by a full church on my way around Sri Lanka
passing by a full church on my way around Sri Lanka
Elephant Village Molagoda - riding on an Elephant without a saddle and then scrubbing his back
riding on an Elephant without a saddle and then scrubbing his back
Negombo - nice beach with local guest houses between Colombo and the airport
nice beach with local guest houses between Colombo and the airport
Abayagiriya Stupa -
early Buddhist monastery in a royal city, lasting for one millennia
Anuradhapura - ancient capital of the Sri Lankan kingdom with many ruins and relics
ancient capital of the Sri Lankan kingdom with many ruins and relics
Mihintale - the birth place of Buddhism in Sri Lanka on a mountain peak
the birth place of Buddhism in Sri Lanka on a mountain peak
Dambulla Cave -
very old Buddhist temple complex built under an overhanging rock
Polonnaruwa - ruined royal capital of the second ancient Kingdom of Sri Lanka
ruined royal capital of the second ancient Kingdom of Sri Lanka
Sigiriya - ruins of an ancient royal capital city on a granite Lion's rock
ruins of an ancient royal capital city on a granite Lion's rock
Sacred Quadrangle (Dalada Maluva) - a series of temples and shrines within the royal city Polonnaruwa
a series of temples and shrines within the royal city Polonnaruwa
Nissankamalla - one of many Sri Lankan Kings with a special thing for architecture
one of many Sri Lankan Kings with a special thing for architecture
Parakramabahu - last Sri Lankan King to unite and rule the small island in Polonnaruwa
last Sri Lankan King to unite and rule the small island in Polonnaruwa
Sri Jinaratana - stumbling upon an abandoned building in the city of Colombo
stumbling upon an abandoned building in the city of Colombo
Beira Lake - a green oasis in middle of a bustling city and business district
a green oasis in middle of a bustling city and business district
Gangaramaya Temple - important Buddhist temple in Colombo with a wild mix of styles
important Buddhist temple in Colombo with a wild mix of styles
Mount Lavina - best way to spend my very last day in Sri Lanka, at the golden beach
best way to spend my very last day in Sri Lanka, at the golden beach
Bandaranaike Airport - finally arriving in Sri Lanka, after a missed flight in Singapore
finally arriving in Sri Lanka, after a missed flight in Singapore
Indian Visa Center Colombo - queueing for every single step in the long visa application process
queueing for every single step in the long visa application process
Sri Lankan Cuisine - a great mix of fresh produce, tea and South Indien style cuisine
a great mix of fresh produce, tea and South Indien style cuisine
Sri Lankan Road Trip - driving around the island of Sri Lanka in a rented car and having fun
driving around the island of Sri Lanka in a rented car and having fun
Sri Lankan People - smiley, friendly, mostly Buddhist and with a long monarch history
smiley, friendly, mostly Buddhist and with a long monarch history