Introduction: solving the riddle of the Balkan Peninsula

Grasping and understanding the Balkan Peninsula region is a difficult task. Especially the western Balkan suffered from many cultural and religious tensions. While I was still in school, several wars were fought and the political borders have changed since. Countless refugees and bad news from this period left a rather negative impression in Switzerland. Since then, many Balkan descendants were happily integrated and merged with my own culture. Visiting the origins of this recent incidents, was especially interesting and honouring for me. From Sofia, I set out to explore the former Yugoslavia as well as Albania.

Macedonia: trying to revive the former glory

The first nation of the former Yugoslavia caught me with surprise. Coming from Sofia, I entered the country in the East on some pretty run-down roads. Driving alone on a crumbling and cracking highway, I did not believe my eyes to encounter a toll road cashier! In Skopje, the capital, I realised where this money is flowing. Countless statues decorate all the public squares and avenues. The city feels utterly surreal with some magnificent architecture between deteriorating ruins and endless construction sites. Even my hosts street name changed since the last maps update. Because I continued to the Kosovo in the North, I totally missed out the beautiful nature of the South.

Kosovo: building a young nation on dusty ruins

Gaining its independence only in 2008, this young nation is still cleaning up its ruins. In no other European country have I encountered more destroyed infrastructure. The main road from Skopje to Pristina first meanders along a mountainous valley, before stretching across a dusty, unreal plain. This street is like an endless dirty corridor of scattered small buildings. Most of them are garbage dumps, scrapyards or basic gas stations and shops. The Swiss influence is immense: Hotel Switzerland, Berne and Geneva is just a selection. Pristina itself is also a rather dim and grey place, with KFOR military police still present. At least the markets and main streets are bustling with people. The city of Prizren with its hill fortress and its new highway make a much friendlier appearance. As this place is next to Albania, their close relationship is more than obvious.

Albania: a place so different, yet so close

I am quite puzzled about the isolation and anti-integration with Europe. This small piece of land at the end of the Adriatic Sea, never really mingled with the rest of the continent. You can feel and smell the difference when driving and walking around. Their climate is already quite subtropical and the architecture adapted, with an oriental touch. Even the last communist regime left its traces: wide alleys and small bunker (so called hedgehogs) scattered all over the country. Dozens of castles and fortresses tell the story of a long and rich history. After all, this unique country left a very good impression on me.

Montenegro: beautiful beaches and national parks

This region encompasses some of the most beautiful landscapes on a very small area. In the South, I enjoyed the warm Adriatic beaches. Between or even underneath modern resorts and casinos, lie many traces of ancient civilisations. Just behind the coastline, narrow roads are winding up steep mountains, offering the most beautiful scenic views. Driving to the North, the landscape is getting more distinguished. Colourful forests with blue lakes are alternating with mountain ranges and deep canyons. The hole region invites for hiking, rafting and other outdoor activities. It seems like the independence of 2006 packed all nature parks into one country.

Bosnia and Herzegovina: complex and intertwined

Besides exploring and enjoying the country, I also tried to understand it. However, as a foreigner with limited time, I only came to partial conclusions. Starting with a great history book and travel journey, I learned the basics. In Sarajevo I visited places with historical impact like: the site of the murder of Archduke Franz Ferdinand by Gavrilo Princip in 1914 (leading to the first world war), the bob slide of Olympia 1984 (since abandoned), the gateway tunnel of the bloody siege of 1992 - 1995 (leading to the independence of Serbia). Today, the capital is imprisoned between many hills and reminiscent graveyards. Yet it is inviting for traditional food and coffee, as well as Turkish hamam treatments.

Serbia: suffering from the burden of its past

After visiting several nations, who fought for independence, I finally reached the epicenter that wanted to hold it all together. Belgrade was not only the capital of Yugoslavia, but also the last place to fight for a united South Slavic empire. Unsurprisingly, the only remains are ruins and moans about the NATO bombing in 1999. Besides a few magnificent buildings and monuments, the city is still pretty run-down. On the rails I met some old acquaintances: retired trams from Basel, my hometown. On the castle hill, I enjoyed the view over the Sava and Danube rivers, which separated the Ottoman and Habsburger empires for centuries. Today Belgrade is the perfect playground for urban explorers and street artists.

Summary: diverse in nature and rich in culture

Starting with little expectations, I met a mostly beautiful and friendly environment. The diverse and scenic landscapes left a lasting impression on me. On this journey, I met some of the most passionate and generous hosts in my life. Not only was I received with open arms and a friendly smile, but also as part of the family. Some of the past quarrels and disputes are still present and those nations have to find their path. Nevertheless, all of them have a rich culture and there is a lot more to discover. After all, I could not manage to put all puzzles together to understand the western Balkan.

Croatia and Slovenia - the last countries of the Balkan - I will happily cover on my next journey.

I am thanking all the great hosts and people, who have made this journey a great experience!