Laos by Motorbike: Hanoi to Luang Prabang

My most demanding journey in South-East Asia!
Wednesday, August 2, 2017 to Wednesday, August 9, 2017

Introduction: 1,000 km on a bike

Yes, I admit it, I never drove a motorbike before, but was ready to jump to another adventure - driving through Laosinfo-icon by motorbike! In Vietnaminfo-icon, I learned how to ride a scooter and made multiple day trips. This got me hooked, and I wanted to see how far I could go. Then I met this guy in Hanoi who tried to sell his Honda Win, only one week before my Visa expired.

I jumped on it, did a quick test ride and bought it for less than $200. It was not in the best condition, as it was tough to start and killed itself when idling too long. But it did its job and brought me pretty far in the end. My plan was to drive 1,000 kilometers from Hanoi to Luang Prabang.

Testing the Machine - Hanoi to Ninh Binh

Beautiful curvy road to Laos

Before going for the big trip, I did a shorter test ride. From Hanoi, I drove to the beautiful Ninh Binh and back. Each way took about two hours along a flat and busy highway. Most roads in Vietnam are well maintained, and traffic is chaotic, but drivers are rather friendly.

You have a limited time in Hanoi and don't know where to start? Don't worry, here's a complete guide on how to spend 2 days in Hanoi.

Finally, on the road again, I felt the freedom and power of a proper overland road trip. After half a year without such a feeling, I remembered my past adventures in Eastern Europeinfo-icon and Africainfo-icon. My first trip with the bike was tough but nothing compared to what followed.

More of this stunning road to Laos

Na Meo Border Crossing with Motorbike

On the way to Na Meo border crossing

My journey to Laos could not have started worse. I left Hanoi only two days before my Visa expired, so I was under real pressure. To my annoyance, this particular day saw the heaviest rainfall in weeks. In two cumbersome days, I made my way over the Vietnamese mountains into Laos.

Kids showing of their bicycle skills

I was soaked and exhausted when I reached the Na Meo border. There, at least, I could relax and get dry, as I was waiting in the sun for the border to open. They have a ridiculous lunch-break of about two hours. After paying a little fee to export my precious machine, I set my first foot onto Laos. Not even halfway from Hanoi to Luang Prabang but already exhausted.

Reaching Na Meo border

Crossing Na Meo border with a motorbike was surprisingly easy! Also, the landscape on the way was rewarding and a good motivation to continue, even of the very miserable conditions!

Road on the way to Na Meo

Recovering in Viang Xai

Reaching to Viang Xai

The Laotian roads caught me by surprise. After the border, the road conditions quickly deteriorated. Then, a loose gravel curve brought me down, I slipped and broke the bike's clutch.

Laos taught me a valuable lesson: rushing does not help you in the long run!

Local dinner at Viang Xai

Patiently, I waited for the first pickup to pass by. Luckily, the two Vietnamese travelers picked me up and brought me to the next city, Viang Xai. There, I recovered from my shock and had my bike repaired. In the politically important caves, I learned much about the founding days of modern communist Laos. Still, I had a long way in front of me.

Getting to Phonsavan - Sunrise to Sunset Drive

Getting to Phonsavan

After my rest in Viang Xai, I embarked on the next phase. The next city, Phonsavan, was a staggering 300 kilometers away. What I did not expect though, was the mountainous terrain in between.

Are you a type of traveler who'd rather avoid tourist crowds and explore off-the-beaten-path of Laos

Nearly the entire stretch was a long chain of curves, going up and down a series of mountains. Adding some more heavy rainfalls, it was yet another long journey. I tried to enjoy the stunning landscape and the small villages along the way, but my exhaustion grew by the hour.

On the road to Phonsavan

After riding the entire day, from sunrise to sunset, I finally reached Phonsavan. The city itself is no beauty but offers a series of cultural and natural highlights. I enjoyed dinner at a real Italian restaurant and a Laotian massage before moving on.

Reaching Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang landscape

The last stretch was not much better than the days before. My ride to Luang Prabang became an equally cumbersome experience. Halfway, my chain broke, and I had to hitch for another pickup. Lucky again, the first driver took me all the way to the next bigger village, where a young boy fixed my two-wheeler.

With my last strength, I made it to the crowded and touristic Luang Prabang. The city and its surrounding offer breath-taking sceneries and adventures combined with amazing ancient temples. All the pain and strain was absolutely worth it.

Don't have an idea about things to do and places to visit in Luang Prabang? Don't worry, here are some awesome things to do in Luang Prabang.

Driving Laos by motorbike was extremely mesmerizing and rewarding. All the way, from Hanoi to Luang Prabang, I only met friendly and helpful Lao people. After selling my bike, I embarked a plane and left Indochina for good.

Time to refill the energy with delicious Laos food

Thanks to all the mechanics and pickup drivers who made this journey possible ;)

My waypoints on this journey

Hang Mua Cave - enjoying the view over Ninh Binh after climbing up the mountain
enjoying the view over Ninh Binh after climbing up the mountain
Ninh Binh - testing my new old Honda Win on a minor roadtrip in Vietnam
testing my new old Honda Win on a minor roadtrip in Vietnam
Trang An Grottoes - unique Vietnamese landscape with over 30,000 years of human history
unique Vietnamese landscape with over 30,000 years of human history
Hoa Binh - quick stop on the ride from Hanoi to Laos through heavy rainfalls
quick stop on the ride from Hanoi to Laos through heavy rainfalls
Mai Chau - resting at a local homestay between two full days of riding my bike
resting at a local homestay between two full days of riding my bike
Thung Ke -
crossing one of the most stunning pass roads in Vietnam by bike
Na Meo (border Vietnam > Laos) - leaving Vietnam after a long drive on my motorbike on great roads
leaving Vietnam after a long drive on my motorbike on great roads
Honda Win Repair - breaking my precious bike after a few meters on bad Laotian roads
breaking my precious bike after a few meters on bad Laotian roads
Vieng Xai - stumbling upon the quasi-birthplace of Laos, a city of importance
stumbling upon the quasi-birthplace of Laos, a city of importance
Vien Xai Caves - playground of a terrible war and birthplace of a new government
playground of a terrible war and birthplace of a new government
Houaphanh Provence -
driving nearly 300km from Vieng Xai to Phonsavan in one day
MAG Mine Advisory Group - Laos is still haunted by unexploded bombs dropped by America
Laos is still haunted by unexploded bombs dropped by America
Kohing -
crossing the Laotian mountains between Vieng Xai and Phonsavan
Phonsavan - reaching the small provincial capital in time before sunset
reaching the small provincial capital in time before sunset
Plain of Jars - walking through a field packed with mysterious stone objects
walking through a field packed with mysterious stone objects
Mechanics in Phoukoun - pitstop in a small workshop to fix my broken Honda Win again
pitstop in a small workshop to fix my broken Honda Win again
Wat Phakeng - one of the last breathtaking sceneries on the road in Laos
one of the last breathtaking sceneries on the road in Laos
Xiangkhouang -
driving nearly 300km from Phonsavan to Luang Prabang in one day
Xiang Ngeun - enjoying the last few miles on the road before Luang Prabang
enjoying the last few miles on the road before Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang Night Market - admiring lovely Laotian artwork and having a delicious local dinner
admiring lovely Laotian artwork and having a delicious local dinner
Luang Prabang - reaching the Laotian capital of culture and religion after a long drive
reaching the Laotian capital of culture and religion after a long drive
Mount Phou Si - enjoy a panoramic view and sunset after quite a steep ascent
enjoy a panoramic view and sunset after quite a steep ascent
Wat Aham - a temple and two stupas to protect the city of Luang Prabang
a temple and two stupas to protect the city of Luang Prabang
Wat Xieng Thong - important Buddhist monastery where the Lao King gets crowned
important Buddhist monastery where the Lao King gets crowned
Kuang Si Waterfall - swimming in one of the most beautiful waterfalls of Laos
swimming in one of the most beautiful waterfalls of Laos
Pak Ou Caves - two caves above the Mekong with thousands of Buddha statues
two caves above the Mekong with thousands of Buddha statues
Elephant Camp - lovely place along the Mekong River to ride the grey animals
lovely place along the Mekong River to ride the grey animals
Muang Pak Ou - my last ride on my motorcycle in Laos along the Mekong River
my last ride on my motorcycle in Laos along the Mekong River