Laos by Motorbike: Hanoi to Luang Prabang
Introduction: 1,000 km on a bike
Yes, I admit it, I never drove a motorbike before, but was ready to jump to another adventure - driving through Laos by motorbike! In Vietnam, I learned how to ride a scooter and made multiple day trips. This got me hooked, and I wanted to see how far I could go. Then I met this guy in Hanoi who tried to sell his Honda Win, only one week before my Visa expired.
I jumped on it, did a quick test ride and bought it for less than $200. It was not in the best condition, as it was tough to start and killed itself when idling too long. But it did its job and brought me pretty far in the end. My plan was to drive 1,000 kilometers from Hanoi to Luang Prabang.
Testing the Machine - Hanoi to Ninh Binh
Before going for the big trip, I did a shorter test ride. From Hanoi, I drove to the beautiful Ninh Binh and back. Each way took about two hours along a flat and busy highway. Most roads in Vietnam are well maintained, and traffic is chaotic, but drivers are rather friendly.
You have a limited time in Hanoi and don't know where to start? Don't worry, here's a complete guide on how to spend 2 days in Hanoi.
Finally, on the road again, I felt the freedom and power of a proper overland road trip. After half a year without such a feeling, I remembered my past adventures in Eastern Europe and Africa. My first trip with the bike was tough but nothing compared to what followed.
Na Meo Border Crossing with Motorbike
My journey to Laos could not have started worse. I left Hanoi only two days before my Visa expired, so I was under real pressure. To my annoyance, this particular day saw the heaviest rainfall in weeks. In two cumbersome days, I made my way over the Vietnamese mountains into Laos.
I was soaked and exhausted when I reached the Na Meo border. There, at least, I could relax and get dry, as I was waiting in the sun for the border to open. They have a ridiculous lunch-break of about two hours. After paying a little fee to export my precious machine, I set my first foot onto Laos. Not even halfway from Hanoi to Luang Prabang but already exhausted.
Crossing Na Meo border with a motorbike was surprisingly easy! Also, the landscape on the way was rewarding and a good motivation to continue, even of the very miserable conditions!
Recovering in Viang Xai
The Laotian roads caught me by surprise. After the border, the road conditions quickly deteriorated. Then, a loose gravel curve brought me down, I slipped and broke the bike's clutch.
Laos taught me a valuable lesson: rushing does not help you in the long run!
Patiently, I waited for the first pickup to pass by. Luckily, the two Vietnamese travelers picked me up and brought me to the next city, Viang Xai. There, I recovered from my shock and had my bike repaired. In the politically important caves, I learned much about the founding days of modern communist Laos. Still, I had a long way in front of me.
Getting to Phonsavan - Sunrise to Sunset Drive
After my rest in Viang Xai, I embarked on the next phase. The next city, Phonsavan, was a staggering 300 kilometers away. What I did not expect though, was the mountainous terrain in between.
Are you a type of traveler who'd rather avoid tourist crowds and explore off-the-beaten-path of Laos?
Nearly the entire stretch was a long chain of curves, going up and down a series of mountains. Adding some more heavy rainfalls, it was yet another long journey. I tried to enjoy the stunning landscape and the small villages along the way, but my exhaustion grew by the hour.
After riding the entire day, from sunrise to sunset, I finally reached Phonsavan. The city itself is no beauty but offers a series of cultural and natural highlights. I enjoyed dinner at a real Italian restaurant and a Laotian massage before moving on.
Reaching Luang Prabang
The last stretch was not much better than the days before. My ride to Luang Prabang became an equally cumbersome experience. Halfway, my chain broke, and I had to hitch for another pickup. Lucky again, the first driver took me all the way to the next bigger village, where a young boy fixed my two-wheeler.
With my last strength, I made it to the crowded and touristic Luang Prabang. The city and its surrounding offer breath-taking sceneries and adventures combined with amazing ancient temples. All the pain and strain was absolutely worth it.
Don't have an idea about things to do and places to visit in Luang Prabang? Don't worry, here are some awesome things to do in Luang Prabang.
Driving Laos by motorbike was extremely mesmerizing and rewarding. All the way, from Hanoi to Luang Prabang, I only met friendly and helpful Lao people. After selling my bike, I embarked a plane and left Indochina for good.
Thanks to all the mechanics and pickup drivers who made this journey possible ;)
My waypoints on this journey
-
Ninh Binh
testing my new old Honda Win on a minor roadtrip in VietnamLocation:
Ninh Bình, Ninh Bình Province, VietnamDuration:
Tuesday, August 1, 2017Personal highlights
- Ninh Binh: touristic city within the Red River Delta in Vietnam
- Honda Win: driving the first 100 km on my brand new old motorcycle!
- Vietnamese Roads: mostly in very good condition and easy drivable
- Vietnamese Traffic: can be terrible, but moderate on this stretch
- Journey: one small trip from Hanoi to Ninh Binh and back
Image sources
- Panorama over Ninh Binh
- Driving on Vietnamese roads
- Having a quick pit stop
- Checking the engine
- Having dessert in Ninh Binh