Rhodesia and Nyasaland

Crossing the poor and landlocked region of southern central Africa
Saturday, October 1, 2016 to Thursday, October 13, 2016

Introduction: landlocked, unknown, neglected

The territory in between Eastern and Southern Africainfo-icon is not well known. Only Zimbabweinfo-icon because of its eccentric ruler for lifetime gets some attention. The mighty Victoria Falls was the only tourist attraction I heard of before this journey. As the European fore-trekkers some centuries ago, I felt adventurous when arriving from Tanzaniainfo-icon. Within two weeks, I wanted to cross and discover Malawiinfo-icon (former Nyasaland), Zambiainfo-icon and Zimbabwe (former Rhodesia).

Malawi: laid back and left behind by globalisation

Not for the first time, I felt the difference when crossing the border. Malawi is visibly poorer than its large neighbour in the North, Tanzania. The customs officers tried everything, not to issue a cheaper Transit Visa and to get some extra payment. Interestingly, the same officer stopped a street vendor to sell me an overpriced – yet still cheap – Coke. The next shock came at the ATM, where the maximum was 40$, issued in the countries largest bank notes of 1,000 Quatscha (1$). Even the capital, Lilongwe, feels like a rural township. Life plays along the great Lake Malawi, where everybody is fishing and selling crafts. At the Lake of Stars festival, I danced once again into the sunrise and then jumped into the refreshing water. For some days, I enjoyed the relaxed and basic lifestyle.

Zambia: a little wealth through natural resources

Copper and other minerals made a difference in Zambia. The country is not particularly wealthy, but still more developed as its neighbours. On smooth asphalt roads, I crossed the country westwards. The capital, Lusaka, feels like a miniature Nairobi. Between the cities, lies a vast land and some lonely traditional huts. Many undeveloped National Parks attract off-road safari tours. The country’s name is derived from the great Zambezi river. My path took me upriver from the wide Lower Zambezi to narrow canyons. On the footsteps of Livingstone, I reached the Victoria Falls on its driest season. They impressed not through thundering water, but through millennia carved and eroded rocks.

Zimbabwe: greatest heritage of southern Africa

Crossing the border over the fall’s canyon was spectacularly unspectacular. In Zimbabwe, I was welcomed by extraordinarily friendly customs officers. On the road, I soon realized what everybody was warning me from. Every 20km, a group of police officers tried to make some money through false accusations and harassment – like finding Marihuana! I patiently played along and talked my way out until they gave up. In the Southwest, I learned more about Zimbabwe’s great history. First, I climbed up holy rocks to discover ancient cave paintings from the Stone Age. Then, I climbed stone ruins from the Bantu tribes, before exploring the greatest colonial Natural History Museum. Zimbabwe is rich in culture and history.

Rhodesia: the colonial empire of a single man

Cecil Rhodes’ legacy is only slowly fading away. No other man left more colonial traces as this British explorer and entrepreneur. He dreamt of a railway connection from Cairo to Cape Town and formed the ominous De Beers diamond monopoly. After all, the former state’s name of Rhodesia was dedicated to his remarkable achievements. Under the British flag, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi were united for a short period. Through several museums, books and personal conversations, I tried to put the pieces together. The African continent has much more to offer than diamonds and lions.

Summary: endless potential, yet to be unfolded

On my journey, I crossed three completely different countries. Besides neighbouring each other, they had not much in common. After their independence, about sixty years ago, they evolved independently. Besides the past copper boom in Zambia, all seem to be left behind by the recent globalisation. This could be attested to their geographic location, climate, traditions or former mismanagement. On the street, the people were openly asking me for the help from the international community. In many occasions, I felt compassion, but also helpless. Foreign aid or fair trade will not fix the situation. National as well as international politics have to change.

Thanks to all the people who shared their suffering with me and good luck to you!

My waypoints on this journey

Cultural & Museum Centre Karonga - inspecting the mortal remains of a Rhinoceros and extinct Malawisaurus
inspecting the mortal remains of a Rhinoceros and extinct Malawisaurus
Mushroom Farm - sleeping in a tree house build on the mountain overlooking Lake Malawi
sleeping in a tree house build on the mountain overlooking Lake Malawi
Lake of Stars (night) - dancing three nights in a row to African beats and great electronic tunes
dancing three nights in a row to African beats and great electronic tunes
Lake of Stars (day) - celebrating three days of colourful and lively African culture at Lake Malawi
celebrating three days of colourful and lively African culture at Lake Malawi
Senga Bay - witnessing a heavy storm over Lake Malawi at an otherwise quite place
witnessing a heavy storm over Lake Malawi at an otherwise quite place
Lilongwe - the African capital that feels like a rural village, but has a Chinese mall
the African capital that feels like a rural village, but has a Chinese mall
Chipata (Malawi > Zambia) - crossing the border from Malawi to Zambia and waiting for 3 tax receipts
crossing the border from Malawi to Zambia and waiting for 3 tax receipts
Lusaka National Museum - where beautiful contemporary art meets Zambian history and culture in one exhibition
where beautiful contemporary art meets Zambian history and culture in one exhibition
Lusaka - Zambia's capital, built by concrete and copper, paid by the mining industry
Zambia's capital, built by concrete and copper, paid by the mining industry
Lower Zambezi - driving slalom around many elephants, but not spotting a single lion in the park
driving slalom around many elephants, but not spotting a single lion in the park
Luangwa River - spending one night at the Luangwa Bridge Camp before heading to the Lower Zambezi
spending one night at the Luangwa Bridge Camp before heading to the Lower Zambezi
Choma - small town between Lusaka and Livingstone, where Zambia found inner peace
small town between Lusaka and Livingstone, where Zambia found inner peace
Livingstone - city at the border of the Victoria Falls, named after the most iconic explorer
city at the border of the Victoria Falls, named after the most iconic explorer
Victoria Falls - off season at the most touristic spot in Africa, only a little stream of water
off season at the most touristic spot in Africa, only a little stream of water
Livingstone (Zambia > Zimbabwe) - crossing from Zambia to Zimbabwe on a historic nomansland's iron bridge
crossing from Zambia to Zimbabwe on a historic nomansland's iron bridge
Matabeleland - driving through the middle of nowhere and talking our way out of fines / bribes
driving through the middle of nowhere and talking our way out of fines / bribes
Bulawayo - strolling through pulsating streets in a fusion of colonial and modern times
strolling through pulsating streets in a fusion of colonial and modern times
Natural History Museum of Zimbabwe - visiting the most impressive museum of all Africa with poisonous snakes
visiting the most impressive museum of all Africa with poisonous snakes
Matobos National Park - spotting Zebras near the campsite and walking up to a White Rhino
spotting Zebras near the campsite and walking up to a White Rhino
Matobo Hills - exploring only few of the thousands of stone- and iron-age's cave paintings
exploring only few of the thousands of stone- and iron-age's cave paintings
Khami Ruins - sweating a lot while exploring the stone ruins of an ancient zimbabwe city
sweating a lot while exploring the stone ruins of an ancient zimbabwe city