Coast to Coast in Southern Africa

Sometimes you have to fight with conviction to achieve your dreams or adjust your plans
Thursday, December 1, 2016 to Tuesday, December 13, 2016

Introduction: fight for the dream and adjust the plan

This journey was not meant to be the last on my African roadtrip. Initially, I planned to drive a round trip from Nairobi to Cape Town and back. The plan was to drive up the Eastern African coast along Mozambiqueinfo-icon and Zanzibar. But as my car made more and more problems, I was running out of time and trust in the car. Getting back to Nairobi slowly shifted out of reach for me. Nevertheless, I wanted to explore the entire southern tip of Africainfo-icon with all of its countries. With quite some struggle and a lot of conviction, I started my last big trip of the year 2016.

Western Cape: from the desserts back into civilisation

From Namibiainfo-icon in the North, I entered the territory of South Africainfo-icon. Already at the border, I felt a difference: greener and more fertile land. On the long drive towards Cape Town, the landscape transformed even more dramatically. From the rocky high plateau in the North, suddenly a golden valley opens up. Most of the Western Cape is highly fertile and an agricultural dream. No wonder, settlers from different origins fought after this territory. From picturesque green vineyards, over amazingly golden cornfields to the blue ocean, this land is truly majestic. Its centre is Cape Town, where everything started any my journey took a twist. After 15,000 kilometres, I abandoned my car and continued in a rented substitution.

Eastern Cape: from the ocean into the mountains

Along the Indian Ocean, I drove eastwards through South Africa. The Garden Route, what many people call the most scenic route in the World, I crossed in just one day. I have missed many of its natural spectacles, but had a glimpse of it at the Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge. There I picked up two German travellers with the same idea for the very rest of my journey. Together we sacrificed the impressive Wild Coast and famous Drakensberg mountains for other highlights. Instead, we drove into mountainous Lesothoinfo-icon and then to an amazing dance festival outside of Johannesburg. From there we crossed the Kruger National Park and continued into Swazilandinfo-icon.

Lesotho: a hidden kingdom high in the mountains

I did not have time, but I wanted to see this country. In only 24 hours, I acquired a fairly comprehensive and lasting impression. The country feels utterly different than South Africa and gives an impression in pre-colonial times. The mountainous landscape itself is stunning and the people simple but happy. Because if its altitude, the clouds were seemingly hovering right above the ground and the stars could nearly be grabbed. Camping with a horde of motorcycle freaks (Roof of Africa), horseback riding and hunting for dinosaur footpaths, completed my extraordinary experience. The mountain kingdom offers many highlights.

Head over to not so known attractions in Lesotho and plan your amazing trip ahead! 

Swaziland: visiting Africa’s last absolute monarchy

Finally, I made it to the country that nearly sounds like my home (Switzerlandinfo-icon)! This was very exciting for me, especially as most citizens knew my own country. They all knew, when I sad “I’m not from Swaziland, but from …”. Africa’s only absolute monarchy is a true green Garden of Eden. On my route through the small country, I passed mountain peaks, green valleys and a blue dam. People were extremely friendly and decent, living a simple life and worshipping their tribal heritage. In comparison to the rest of Africa, the ruling monarch is widely supported because he unites one single tribe. At a cultural event, I joined the youth in their fight against the aids epidemic and violence. Swaziland is a truly unique country with its own charm.

Mozambique: fading colours of a crumbling regime

My very last stop on the black continent brought me to Maputo. This was the first country I visited, without English as a national language. And clearly, things were running differently. The remains of its Portuguese influence and the communistic regime where clearly visible. It still feels like a strictly controlled military state. In the city centre, I passed my multiple districts that were sealed and guarded by checkpoints. Overall, the capital is fairly run down, colours slowly fading away. Nevertheless, I met some nice people and also had a great party night. After being splashed by a car and dripping wet, I enjoyed one of the best fish in my life. With mixed feelings and a temperature of 40 degrees, I boarded the aeroplane back to Europeinfo-icon.

Summary: not quite as planned, but a grand finale

In the end, I successfully made my way to Mozambique. Even though I did not make it back to Nairobi, I visited all the African countries I wanted to. It was a temporary struggle with many drawbacks, but I safely and happily made it. Replacing my own with a rented car was hurtful but necessary. This was the only way for me to drive all the way from the Atlantic coast back to the Indian Ocean. This last trip once more confirmed that Africa is a great place to travel. The vast landscapes offer endless beautify and people are unbelievably friendly. It is a pity, that Europe shows so little interest in and empathy with the Southern hemisphere. So many treasures and hidden gems are ready to be explored.

Thanks to all the great spirits who made my time in Africa a time to remember!

My waypoints on this journey

Aristea Ship Wreck - examining my very first ship wreck, after missing the skeleton coast in Namibia
examining my very first ship wreck, after missing the skeleton coast in Namibia
Ou Tronk Ruins - stumbling upon abandoned and overgrown ruins in the middle of nowhere
stumbling upon abandoned and overgrown ruins in the middle of nowhere
Cape Namibia Route - driving down the last few hundred kilometres on my way from Nairobi to Cape Town
driving down the last few hundred kilometres on my way from Nairobi to Cape Town
Cape Agulhas - reaching the southern most tip of the African continent, where two oceans meet!
reaching the southern most tip of the African continent, where two oceans meet!
Napier - slurping a refreshing milkshake on the way to the southern most tip of Africa
slurping a refreshing milkshake on the way to the southern most tip of Africa
Gansbaai Shark Diving - watching some of the great white sharks instead of diving with them in a cage
watching some of the great white sharks instead of diving with them in a cage
Hermanus - wrong timing for whale watching, but still a picturesque view over the ocean
wrong timing for whale watching, but still a picturesque view over the ocean
Mossel Bay - following the footsteps of our human ancestors many millennia ago in Africa
following the footsteps of our human ancestors many millennia ago in Africa
Knysna - Garden Route - rushing through one of the most scenic and natural coast lines in the world
rushing through one of the most scenic and natural coast lines in the world
Wild Spirit - Nature's Valley - turning a simple stop for the night into a stunning experience in nature
turning a simple stop for the night into a stunning experience in nature
Maseru (South Africa > Lesotho) - rushing through the border and then the capital of the mountain kingdom
rushing through the border and then the capital of the mountain kingdom
Thaba Bosiu - Cultural Village - talking to school kids and riding a horse around the historic hills of Lesotho
talking to school kids and riding a horse around the historic hills of Lesotho
Kome Rock Paintings - learning about the culture and history of the heavenly kingdom Lesotho
learning about the culture and history of the heavenly kingdom Lesotho
Mafikeng Dinosaur Footprints - dancing with local children before camping with a horde of crazy bikers
dancing with local children before camping with a horde of crazy bikers
Neural Networks Festival - dancing like there is no tomorrow to psy trance goa in a forest near Johannesburg
dancing like there is no tomorrow to psy trance goa in a forest near Johannesburg
Fly Fishing - spontaneously packing some flies and trying to catch a trout in the lake
spontaneously packing some flies and trying to catch a trout in the lake
Jeppe's Reef (South Africa > Swaziland) - entering Swaziland, the very last absolute kingdom of the African continent
entering Swaziland, the very last absolute kingdom of the African continent
Kruger National Park - spotting elephants, rhinos, giraffes, zebras and many more, but no big cats
spotting elephants, rhinos, giraffes, zebras and many more, but no big cats
Maguga Rock Paintings - discovering an amazing set of rock paintings - far away of any bigger road
discovering an amazing set of rock paintings - far away of any bigger road
Mbabane - living in two worlds: modern city malls popping up between rural countryside
living in two worlds: modern city malls popping up between rural countryside
Candle Craft Market - best Christmas shopping ever, spending money on local artists and crafts only
best Christmas shopping ever, spending money on local artists and crafts only
Swaziland National Museum - exploring the culture, traditions and origins of a small kingdom in Southern Africa
exploring the culture, traditions and origins of a small kingdom in Southern Africa
Arts Against Abuse - happy gathering of the Swaziland's youth to fight against domestic violence
happy gathering of the Swaziland's youth to fight against domestic violence
Black Motion at Woodlands - totally unexpected live concert of an amazing South African electronic music band
totally unexpected live concert of an amazing South African electronic music band
Goba (Swaziland > Mozambique) - crossing my last border on the African continent on my big overland road trip
crossing my last border on the African continent on my big overland road trip
Maputo - arriving at the last destination of my African road trip, the capital of Mocambique
arriving at the last destination of my African road trip, the capital of Mocambique
Matchedje - club-hopping and clubbing in Maputo, finding the right place in the end
club-hopping and clubbing in Maputo, finding the right place in the end
Assema (Museu Nacional de Arte) - hanging out with local craftsmen instead of visiting the national art gallery
hanging out with local craftsmen instead of visiting the national art gallery
Maputo Railway Station CFM - diving into history at one of the 10 most beautiful railway stations in the world
diving into history at one of the 10 most beautiful railway stations in the world
Ethiopian (Maputo > Frankfurt) - it's time to say goodbye; leaving lovely Africa after eight exciting months
it's time to say goodbye; leaving lovely Africa after eight exciting months